Restaurants

Food Hotel: The Yeatman, Porto, Portugal.

The Yeatman

Food Hotel: The Yeatman, Porto, Portugal

The Yeatman

Rua do Choupelo
Vila Nova de Gaia
4400-088 Portugal
+351 93 200 3916

www.theyeatman.com

Vila Nova de Gaia, on the busy south side of the Douro at Porto, seems an unlikely place in which to make and store wines. Nor would you expect to find here what is being billed as Portugal’s finest hotel and restaurant.

Owned by the Taylor-Fladgate Port group, which owns the Croft, Fonseca and Taylor brands, The Yeatman had a “soft opening” in September 2010 before its official launch in January 2011. I was one of the “friends” invited to stay (at my own cost, I should mention) during the “soft” period when the finishing touches to the hotel were being made – which is to say that there was a lot of building work still going on.

The €32 million budget was funded mainly by Taylor’s, with €7 million from the Portuguese government (no wonder they’ve gone bust), though the final cost was €40 million. The hotel sits high above the Port lodges and rabelos (boats) that lie along the riverfront. Taylor’s has built 82 bedrooms (all sponsored by a “Wine Partner”); 11 event rooms; a wine shop; a 20,000-bottle capacity cellar, overseen by Beatriz Machado; and The Caudalie Vinothérapie® Spa, where those who have overindulged can purge themselves. I was given a 50-minute massage here with the lovely Sonia, who considered me to be “stressful” (I think that she meant “stressed”) and “toxic” (in the best sense). Too much work and wine has apparently shortened my life.

The Yeatman ’s chef Ricardo Costa was formerly at the Relais & Châteaux Casa da Calçada hotel in Amarante, 40 miles north-east of Porto, where he obtained a Michelin Star. Taylor-Fladgate’s MD Adrian Bridge persuaded him to come to Porto, perhaps by showing him the magnificent view from the Yeatman’s dining room (and most of the guest rooms) of the river and the Ponte de Dom Luis.

I ate from the five-course “Express Menu” with some additional amuses bouches. The aperitif drink was Murganheira Grande Reserva Bruto Assemblage 1995, a sparkling wine from Beiras in north Portugal. Largely made from Malvasia Fina, with the red grapes Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz also in the blend, it smelled “skinny” – of grape skins, that is – with little of the yeastiness found in Champagne and some other sparkling wines. The hotel exists to promote Portuguese wines, especially Port, but a wide range of classics from other countries is available from the 1,500-wines list. The Murganheira was pleasant, as was the Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas Extra Virgin Olive Oil, which I was told has low acidity of only half a percent.

The first amuses bouches were foie gras with caramelised apple; scallop salad with Avruga caviar; and steak tartare. They were delicious and decadent. The dishes kept coming – they must have known that I’d been to the Spa that afternoon. The flatbread was scrumptious.

Beef carpaccio topped with a cheese balloon on a tunatto sauce – a Portuguese version of vitello tonnato – with rucola (rocket) leaves and white asparagus was the first starter. The cheese balloon was achieved brilliantly but it looked better than it tasted – it was rather rubbery in texture and flavour. The beef was tasty but a bit chewy.

Having downed the Murganheira, I was offered a white wine from Bucelas – Companhia das Quintas’s Santa Catherina Reserva 2007, made from the obscure but well-regarded Arinto grape. It had a creamy, almost yoghurt-like nose, with pear flavours and snappy acidity. It was very good with the shrimp in a (superb) celery sauce. The few chunks of celery that were floating in the dish really weren’t necessary.

The main fish course of Monkfish roasted with tomato chutney had some sort of sweet and sour caramelised thing on top and some very earthy tasting carrots. I liked it very much but there was too much calamari pasta with it.

The Atalaya 2008 – a red table wine from the Douro – served with the Mountain Lamb had a colour as dark as the river outside and was made in a modern, lush style, with oak make-up and high alcohol. The lamb had been “double cooked” – boiled twice, apparently – and came with a rather sickly almond and orange cream.

For dessert, the hazelnut mousse and carrot, coconut and curry cake needed to be cut with the ice cream to sweeten and soften it. The fresh strawberries and raspberries that decorated the dish were very moreish. A nutty and nicely chilled Fonseca 20-year old Tawny Port was yum. I can think of few things more enjoyable than sipping Port while enjoying a view of the River Douro.

After such a splendid dinner, breakfast the following morning was a little disappointing. I suppose pasteurised milk and evil-tasting coffee are to be expected in Portugal – I got used to it when I was backpacking round this lovely country ten years ago. But the cold meats and fresh fruits were fine.

Even though parts of the hotel were still a building site, my visit to The Yeatman was impeccable. The accommodation, food, wine and service are just about flawless. Once the hotel is completed it will doubtless be an essential experience for gourmands, oenophiles and Portugalphiles.

Stuart Writer – Stuart George – E-mail

Visit my website www.stuartgeorge.net

The Yeatman

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